Seville offers visitors so many amazing opportunities to appreciate its culture and history. The Royal Alcazar of Seville is particularly outstanding, blending architectural styles across time and civilizations. It has served as the residence of both kings and caliphs. In fact, the royal family of Spain still lives here and hosts events when in Seville on official business. This makes the Royal Alcazar of Seville the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe!
Free entry at Royal Alcazar of Seville
Since we were in Seville for five days, we had some flexibility on when we could visit the Royal Alcazar. This flexibility made it possible for me to purchase free tickets in advance (plus a small administrative fee) for my whole family. The Royal Alcazar offers free tickets during certain times such as Monday afternoons, with some exceptions, limited availability, and the possibility of change with little notice. I was a bit skeptical this would work out, but I was able to purchase the tickets online well in advance. I still wasn’t sure what to expect until we arrived. Upon arrival, there was a long line and a sign that said all tickets were sold for the day. I walked past the line to an attendant and showed my tickets for that time. I was waived in, no problem, past the line and the no remaining tickets available sign. It seems that even during the free entry time, entry is capped. A ticket was a ticket. While some websites say it’s not worth going during the free time, I couldn’t see any downside. Our visit was great!
Photo above: Entering into the Royal Alcazar of Seville. Google Maps actually took us to the back door, and as we walked all the way around to the entrance, I realized just how large this place is.
Photo Above: The Royal Alcazar of Seville is hidden behind this wall.
Visiting Royal Alcazar of Seville
As a first-time visitor, I was overcome by the sheer beauty and historical depth of this palace. It had been hiding in plain sight for several days of my visit to Seville, fortified behind its wall. I guess it is mysterious in that way. I knew I was walking by it every day and found it intriguing that it never quite came into view. So, it was a bit surprising to finally enter the palace and see so much beauty and tranquility hidden here. It was quiet, serene, and calm, like being a world away from the hustle and bustle of Seville just outside its walls. I couldn’t imagine the oasis I found waiting for visitors inside its walls.
Royal Alcazar of Seville history lesson
The Royal Alcazar of Seville is like the grandfather of palaces. It is the oldest palace in Europe where royals still reside. But its story goes way back to the 10th century. It began as a Moorish fort for Moorish rulers. Christian kings took the palace in the 13th century and recognized its beauty even then. Instead of tearing it down, they gave it a makeover, creating the architectural marvel it is today. This palace is a mashup of Mudejar architecture that is absolutely mesmerizing.
This palace doesn’t just have character; it also has had quite a few characters live here. Peter of Castile, or Peter the Cruel (depending on who you ask), lived here in the 14th century and made significant contributions to the palace. He had a thing for extravagance and intrigue, and he used the palace to impress both his lady friends and rivals. He even had some secrete passageways built so he could sneak around the place.
During the 15th century, the famous and powerful royal couple, Ferdinand and Isabella, lived here. Visitors to the alcazar are walking through the same rooms where conquests and plans to send off Columbus to the “new world” were hatched.
In addition to being one of the modern day Spanish royal family’s residences, the palace is also TV royalty. You may recognize it from some of the scenes in Game of Thrones.
Visiting the Royal Alcazar of Seville gardens
We ended up in the gardens of the alcazar soon after arrival. And we must’ve gotten lost here, in its labyrinth (and I am not talking about the Maze Garden). It was so beautiful, spacious, and tranquil, that we were glad to be there. Legend says that the gardens were inspired by descriptions of paradise in the Quran, attempting to recreate heaven on earth using flowing water, lush greenery, and the harmony between shadow and light. Maybe there is something to this legend. We found ourselves immersed here. I felt like I could stay in this garden and everything would be just fine. Unfortunately, the clock was ticking. I am not joking about getting lost here. We eventually had to get move on it to see the palace before it closed. Some might recognize the gardens as the Water Gardens of Dorne from Game of Thrones.
Photo above: Tall palm trees sway above sunny but wintry Seville.
Photo above: The gardens are home to (royal) ducks.
Year-round residents at the Royal Alcazar of Seville
I blame these guys for why we spent so much time in the gardens. I couldn’t leave them; yes, I have a thing for hanging out with these birds. They are so pretty, and they are one of the only creatures on earth that I think are born noble and look like royalty in their birthday suit. These guys clearly belonged here. The rest of us, yeah, I am less sure about!
Photo above: My favorite of the royal peacocks in the royal gardens of the royal palace in Seville. I am going to name him Peter.
Best time to visit the Royal Alcazar of Seville
December was such a good time to be in Seville, and to visit the alcazar. It was on the cooler side of the weather; we were wearing coats. But, I don’t think the plants got the memo. The trees had oranges. The plants were lush and green. Everything was perfect. And considering Seville is rumored to be the hottest place in Europe in the summer, we appreciated the outdoor air conditioning. I imagine the Royal Alcazar is intriguing year-round. And given that the place was not packed out with tourists, there must be a lot of tourists who prefer to come here in the sweltering sun. But I for one must say that coming here in winter was the best choice I made.
Photo above: The pavilion that Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor and King of Spain, commissioned as a garden retreat for contemplation.
Photo above: I spent a lot of my time contemplating the beauty in the various textures, tiles, colors, and plants.
Royal Alcazar of Seville architecture
The garden paradise is surrounded by equally stunning architecture, everywhere you look. To help visitors get a good view of the garden and space, there is a wall you can climb up and walk around. The views here are spectacular, and it is here when I noticed the vastness of this hidden complex in the city. This is also probably when I realized I needed to move a little faster or I would never see it all. On the one side of the wall, visitors overlook the Ladies Garden. On the other side, through the windows, you see the Garden of Poets (Jardin de los Poetas). After some wine and cake at the alcazar cafe, we did eventually make our way inside, to marvel at the alcazar’s architecture and interior.
The Courtyard of the Dolls at Royal Alcazar of Seville
The Courtyard of the Dolls, or Patio de las Muñecas, is known for its delicate beauty and intricate details. Small faces, or dolls, are carved into some of the arches, giving the courtyard its name. The significance of the faces remains a mystery. It is said they might have served as a protective charm, or they might depict important people who lived or visited here. This space is also rumored to be connected with secret passageways, but I cannot confirm their presence (I wouldn’t want to be the one to ruin an ancient secret). The room itself, as you can see in the photos below, is beautiful even without knowing its secrets.
Marveling at the Hall of the Ambassadors at the Royal Alcazar of Seville
The one room I knew I wanted to see was the Salon de los Embajadores (or Hall of Ambassadors). I called it the throne room. This was the main room where the king greeted dignitaries. It was clearly designed to impress dignities near and far away. And it still impresses today. I traveled thousands of miles to see it, and I was awed. This room is in King Peter of Castile’s palace dating to the 14th century, but still capable of communicating its strategic relevance hundreds of years later. The room showcases the fusion between Islamic, Jewish, and Christian influences in architecture and artistic design. The most unique element of this room is its half dome ceiling intricately carved from wood and gilded decor that looks like the night sky.
The intricate details of the alcazar
While I might have raced to see the throne room, it was not the only room that caught my eye. In fact, details everywhere, caught my attention and my camera lens. Room after room, it was like each room competed in a beauty show.
360 views at the Royal Alcazar of Seville
I should have done some neck stretches before coming here because beauty not only in every room, but it was all around me. I could look up, and look down, and nothing was overlooked. No builder grade anything in this house, if you know what I mean.
A treasure hunt for beautiful courtyards
Sometimes, beauty was found through windows and unexpected doors. Like this little courtyard below. It is possible to get so lost in the architecture and art, that one experiences the reverse effect of what I described about being lost in the garden. While I tried hard to catch a glimpse of every sight, I am certain I missed many. There was just so much to see.
Photo above: Perfectly placed poinsettias add an extra pop of color in Jardin de la Danza.
Secret passageway in the alcazar?
Something I didn’t miss was this little passage. I do mean little. As in narrow, and a bit secret. I am not sure whether it really is a secret passageway, but I felt like it was. And if it is a secret, it is impressive that even this space is beautifully decorated to impress people who would never see it.
The basins of the palace
One of the last spaces we explored were the renovated basins below Peter of Castile’s palace. It was an interesting and somber space that likely held many purposes and secrets over the centuries.
Photo above: The restoration of the basins illuminates the space nicely.
Patio de Crucero at the Royal Alzacar of Seville
We also visited the Courtyard of the Cruise, or Patio de Crucero. This is a large cross shaped patio.
FAQs
Purchase your tickets in advance on the official website of the Royal Alcazar of Seville’s website. Adult tickets are 13.50 EUR (as of January 2024).
Yes, my family was able to order free tickets on the official Royal Alcazar of Seville’s website. The palace may offer the public free timed tickets on Mondays. See their website and select the date of your visit to see what is available.
Children through age 13 are free. There may also be a discount available for students aged 14-30. See the Schedules and Rates page for more details.
From end of October to the end of March, the palace can be visited daily from 9:30am to 5pm (closing at 6pm).
From April 1 to the end of October, the palace can be visited daily from 9:30am to 7pm (closing at 8pm).
The palace is closed on Dec, 25, Jan. 1, Jan. 6, and Good Friday.
It is, along with the area of Seville’s cathedral and the General Archive of the Indies.
The Royal Alcazar of Seville’s official website has an amazing page that covers all the courtyards, gardens, modern gardens, and even the species found in the gardens.
One special event is the 75 nights of music from late June to mid-September. The event is called Nights in the Garden and features a variety of music including flamenco. You can find more information here.
Yes, there is a cafe onsite selling drinks and light food options.
When we visited, we had timed entry tickets and when it was our time, we could walk straight up to the gate and enter. However, you can get a skip the line ticket with guided tour here.
Consider this early access English guided tour or this small group tour. Or, for a more personalized experience, try this highly rated tour.
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