Located in the historic center of Cordoba, Spain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you will find Cordoba’s great mosque dating to the 8th century that was repurposed into a cathedral in the 13th century. Hence, earning the name Cordoba Mosque-Cathedral. It is perhaps the best example of the different cultures and faiths that have occupied this city, each leaving its own timestamp on this remarkable architectural masterpiece. Once the Muslim capital of Spain, Cordoba went onto become the largest city in the West before its decline. The well preserved Mezquita is a reminder of its past and demonstrates the beauty of integrating Eastern and Western culture in architecture. The Mezquita can be visited as a day-trip from Seville, but you really need more time to truly experience Cordoba.
The Mezquita Bell Tower
The exterior side wall of the Mezquita
View from inner courtyard
Our visit to the Mezquita
It was the Mezquita that put Cordoba on the map for us. And while we learned that Cordoba has much to offer, the Mezquita is itself a destination. In my research, I learned that it was not necessary to prebook tickets for this site regardless of time of year, so we didn’t. This way, we had the flexibility to decide while in Cordoba, when to go here. I was a little nervous that we didn’t have tickets, but upon arrival, it was clear it wouldn’t be a problem. There were ticket machines across the courtyard from the entrance to the cathedral, near the Bell Tower (there was also a manned ticket booth). We were there in December, and there was no line to buy our tickets and we had no problem with the machines (there was an attendant standing nearby to help). We walked back across the courtyard to the entrance for the cathedral and there was no line. Inside, it looked just like the photos and videos we had seen in advance. What surprised me though, was how vast the space was and the somber serenity in that space. The lighting was subdued, and there was a pervasive calm juxtaposed with the bright sun and chaos of city-life just outside.
Famous arches and hidden treasure
The striped arches stretched on, in orderly fashion, in all directions. At first glance, one might think they have seen it all, as it repeats as far as the eye can see. Predictable, yet different, from every angle. The treasures it held were not obvious. The visitor had to explore its space to uncover its many details and wonders. While there is a cathedral built in the middle of the mosque, Catholic relics, design elements, and religious reminders are integrated throughout the mosque. You have to walk through the whole space not to miss anything.
The Mihrab commands attention
I found myself fixated on the Mihrab, shown in my photos below. I didn’t know its significance; it simply drew my focus here. As I stood there, wondering why I was drawn here, I overheard a tour guide explaining that this was the mosque’s direction for prayer. The design was so elaborate in comparison to the rest of the mosque that I simply had to study its detail. There was very little light coming into the mosque, but this golden dome let some in. The photos above show how just a little natural light glows brightly here. And the dome itself really stood out as the rest of the mosque was subdued and minimalist, but the dome was intricate and clearly special. Truly remarkable and a highlight you don’t want to miss when you visit.
The Cathedral in the middle of a mosque
In the center of the Mezquita, you find the main cathedral. It offers the only seating for worshippers, and also its clergy. I tried to get a photo that depicted the transition from mosque to cathedral, as it is seamless in its integration. Yet the contrast between mosque and cathedral is striking.
Here in the main chapel, windows bring in the natural light and there are moments as you look around at the organ, the chapels, or artwork, that you forget this is not an ordinary cathedral. Yet at other times, in the vast space of arches, you experience the mosque and wouldn’t expect to find the cathedral inside. The space was beautifully integrated, but I felt that both faiths and cultures still stood on their own. It was a beautiful cathedral. And it was a beautiful mosque. Worshippers replaced today by tourists. This really is a mosque-cathedral, and you have to visit if you have the opportunity!
Planning a Visit?
Visit the Cordoba Mosque-Cathedral’s website. Be sure to check the opening hours for the date you want to visit, as I felt the opening times were more limited than what I had expected and you definitely do NOT want to miss this site!
Mezquita Tickets were:
13 EUR for adults, 10 EUR students, 7 EUR for kids (10-14), FREE for kids under 10
Check current prices and additional rates here.
FREE entry: 8:30-9:30am, on Monday through Saturday (with some exceptions)! Free entry ends at 9:20am. If you can make it there early, free entry can cover your lunch that day! Group visits are not allowed during this time, which also means your visit might be free from tour group crowds.
Bell Tower tickets are an extra 3 EUR. We didn’t visit the Bell Tower as we didn’t feel like it that day. We visited the Tower of La Calahorra earlier that day, across the Roman Bridge in Cordoba, and the view of the Mezquita from there was fabulous. I would recommend that tower because it gives you a view of the top Cordoba sites. Our apartment also featured magnificent views of Cordoba, so we had had our fill. The cover photo for this post was taken from the Tower of La Calahorra, and the photo below was taken from our apartment.
Recommended Reading
To really immerse yourself in medieval Spain, consider reading “The Ornament of the World: How Muslims, Jews, and Christians Created a Culture of Tolerance in Medieval Spain.” This book has a 4.5 rating on Amazon (out of 570 ratings). Find out why Christopher Hitchens, The Nation, said, “It is no exaggeration to say that what we presumptuously call “Western” culture is owed in large measure to the Andalusian enlightenment…This book partly restores a world we have lost.”
This would be great reading as you wait for your trip, on the plane ride, or if you have returned and are now extra curious about this topic.
Note that if you make a purchase from Amazon using a link on my website, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you, that is used to support this site.
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