Just a city bus ride away from Seville rests an ancient roman city named Italica. Modern day Santiponce was built on top of Italica’s ruins. Italica itself was built where a Turdesanian settlement had once been. Italica dates back to 206 BC, built for veterans of the Battle of Ilipa by Publius Cornelius Scipio and named for the origin of its settlers. The Roman emperors Trajan and Hadrian (Adriano) were born here. Today, the archeological site is open to visitors showing a Roman amphitheater and the layout of the city’s houses and streets from the Hadrian era. Visitors can freely explore the site and imagine the life that once hustled and bustled here thousands of years ago. The visit can easily be completed as a half-day attraction or combined with nearby attractions in Santiponce for a full day excursion.
How to get to Italica from Seville
If you have a car, you can drive directly to the site (head toward Merida). However, when we visited, we did not have a car and it was no problem to visit Italica by city bus. We walked from our apartment to the Estacion Plaza de Armas. We first entered the old bus station across the street which is now a shopping center (with clean bathrooms fyi), before finding our way to the modern bus facility next door (with dirtier bathrooms). Bus 170A (express) and 170B goes to Italica (Santiponce); it is the last stop and drops you off almost smack in front of the entrance to the archeological site. We purchased our bus tickets as we boarded the bus; so no need to plan these tickets in advance. A tour of Italica with transportation from Seville is also offered for 29 to 39 EUR per person. More information is here.
Photo above: The modern bus station in Seville (Estacion Plaza des Armas).
Photo above: The historic bus station in Seville, also known as Plaza des Armas, now a shopping center. The bathrooms here were much better than those at the “modern bus station.”
Photo above: Family members boarding Bus 170 to Italica, paying the bus driver.
Entrance to Italica archeological site
When you step off the bus at Italica, or otherwise arrive, there are some souvenir vendors set up on the sidewalk across from the entrance. There is also a cute restaurant with outdoor seating that we had some wine and snacks at while we waited for the bus on our return journey to Seville. The entrance fee to Italica is nominal. In fact, it is free for EU citizens, and just 1,50 EUR for everyone else. We purchased our tickets at the entrance gate. You can learn more about the opening hours here for your visit. The site is closed on Mondays; but other dates it is generally open from 9am to 3pm, and later depending on the time of year. We visited in December, the weather was perfect and there were few other tourists there.
Photo above: Map of Italica on site.
Photo above: The entrance gate to Italica.
Photo above: The visitor center has public bathrooms near the entrance.
Exploring the Roman amphitheater
Visitors quickly stumble upon the amphitheater when entering the Italica archeological site. Unlike many of the other amphitheaters we have visited, this one we could simply explore on our own. It is reasonably well preserved for its age. This is the fourth largest Roman amphitheater and is preserved well enough to understand its appearance up to the second level without relying much on imagination. It could hold almost double the size of Italica’s population, at its largest count. We had fun looking around and checking out the various nooks and crannies. There was no hurry for us, as there wasn’t a crowd and we didn’t have to choose a return time for the bus in advance. Game of Thrones fans might recognize the amphitheater from the dragon pits in the last season.
Photo above: View of the ruins around the top of the amphitheater.
Photo above: We explored the tunnels running along the inside wall of the amphitheater.
Photo above: We were able to get up close to the features of the amphitheater.
Photo above: Along the top wall of the amphitheater, there are some viewing platforms where you get a view of the whole amphitheater and can see what it must have looked like to be in the crowds.
Exploring the layout of the ancient city
The city itself, which you discover after the amphitheater, is remarkable for history lovers. The excavated area is a sector that dates back to Hadrian’s era, and was an urban expansion that occurred in the 2nd century quadrupling the city at that time. Having been abandoned soon after, in the 3rd century, visitors are treated to a site that was lost in time and offers a glimpse into an original ancient city and Roman colony. While the parts of the city were inhabited by Muslims during medieval times, Hadrian’s design was never altered. Visitors discover a well-planned city. The roads were once paved, the pedestrian areas were porticoed, and lead pipes provide plumbing.
Plots varied in size depending on function. The Traianeum is a temple dedicated to Trajan in the center of a large square and on a large plot. The style and materials used are similar to those used on other projects commissioned by Hadrian: Hadrian’s Villa (Tivoli, Italy) and the Baths of Neptune (Ostia, Italy). Smaller plots were used for private residences and it was common for homes to have a commercial presence in the front. One of the most exciting features of Italica are the many unearthed mosaics, particularly those in the most luxurious homes and public buildings (such as the thermal bath areas). Some plots were left unfinished at the time Italica was abandoned. And there is still much more of Italica to be excavated. To learn more about the history of the Hadrianic city of Italica, see the description on the UNESCO’s World Heritage site where Italica is on a tentative list for inclusion.
Photo above: Shows a section of the layout of the houses.
Photo above: Sebastian and Sophia pose in front of an intricate mosaic at the site.
Photo above: Another mosaic that caught my eye. There were all really nice and I appreciated the designs.
Photo above: This house had a bakery storefront.
Photo above: An up close look at one of the bird mosaics. We purchased a hot plate with this design from a vendor in front of the archeological site.
Photo above: The placard explaining the House of the Birds, one of the noteworthy mosaics of the homes at the site.
Photo above: Another photo of the House of Birds mosaic.
Photo above: The description of the public latrine.
Photo above: What is left of the excavated latrine.
Photo above: A placard with information about the images on the mosaic of planetarium.
Photo above: The actual mosaic is shown (Mosaic of Planetarium).
Photo: We found water on site. While our visit was in December and the weather was pleasant, I thought it might be helpful to share that there was water as Italica is likely sweltering in the summer heat and this would be a great place to cool off.
Walking trails at Italica
There is a walking trail that takes you around the perimeter of the archeological site. In favorable weather, it is a nice walk and provides views of the amphitheater and Hadrian sector on the hill behind it.
Video from my visit to Italica
Nearby attractions to combine with your visit
There are some other interesting sites in Santiponce that can be combined with your visit to the Italica archeological site. Unfortunately, I did not know about these additional sites before my visit and failed to include them in my plan. So that you can consider them, I am including them here:
- Roman Theater of Italica: This ancient theater is located independently of the Italica archeological site and is open for scheduled festivals and celebrations. There is a viewpoint in Siete Revueltas street, if you want to see it during your visit and it is not open.
- Monastery San Isidoro del Campo: The monastery was founded in 1301near the ruins of Italica and Saint Isidoro of Seville is said to be buried here. Entrance is free and it houses a noteworthy altarpiece.
- Roman Life Interpretation Center: Experience life in the 2nd century Roman city. Visitors are guided through the Cotidiana Vitae and provided interpretation for recreated public and private spaces spanning two floors. Expect to visit a market, the tavern, a school, and the thermal baths. In most cases, admission is 3 EUR. Tours are always guided and part of the exhibition is virtual. had I known about this when I visited, I would have combined this with the Italica archeological site. It would have enriched our visit.
