Cordoba’s historic center, which includes La Juderia, or the old Jewish quarter of Cordoba and the San Basilio district, is a delight to explore. Housed within the remains of the city’s restored walls and gates, this colorful maze of narrow lanes winds around souvenir and artisan shops, top rated restaurants and bars, and Cordoba sites that are probably on your list. Our family spent the majority of our two day visit in Cordoba getting (pleasantly) lost here. Cordoba’s historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And this area is where you will find Cordoba’a great mosque the Mezquita, or famous mosque-cathedral.
The historic center is just behind the old wall shown below.
Things to do and see in Cordoba's historic center
1) Patios and Lanes with Flowers
Floral Patios in Winter
We visited Cordoba around Christmastime (late December) and I was surprised to find so many poinsettias filling the many flowerpots and coloring the winding lanes. I love flowers; I spend lots of time appreciating them when I travel. So I expected to be disappointed to miss the spring and summer flower showcases Cordoba is so famous for. However, I wasn’t disappointed. I thoroughly appreciated the winter floral displays in every nook and cranny. I felt the poinsettias did an excellent job of bringing a pop of color similar to one of my favorites, geraniums.
Additionally, if you visit around Christmas time, you can experience the Festival of the Cordoba Patios at Christmas. Approximately 40 patios display flowers, Christmas decorations and offer entertainment in the evening. The Palace of Viana also has special Christmas programming at this time of year.
Floral Patios in Spring/Summer
The general consensus is that May is the best time of year to visit Cordoba, because of the floral festivals taking place at that time. So if you happen to find yourself in Cordoba at that time of year, it should be a real treat as you are likely to see floral displays that are only available then.
Regardless of the month, you might want to make a beeline for Callejon de las Flores, as this narrow alleyway decked out with flowers is a key photo op! And you definitely want to explore the San Basilio neighborhood, near the Alcazar and Royal Stables, of the historic center.
So about those festivities I mentioned… The best of the Cordoba flower scene will certainly be on display at these celebrations:
Battle of the Flowers Parade (Batalla de las Flores)
This event kicks off the May events, taking place the last Sunday in April. Dating back to the 1940’s, this hour long parade boasts floats covered in paper flowers and arches (like those at the Mezquita). 140,000 carnations are thrown to onlookers. Learn more here.
Crosses of May (Cruces de Mayo)
This four day festival happens at the beginning of May. Crosses decorated with flowers compete for prizes. You can pick up a map from the Cordoba tourist office to help you find the various crosses in the competition. Learn more here.
Patio Festival and Contest (Concurso Popular de Patios)
In early to mid-May, homeowners spend 10 days competing for a prize for the most beautifully decorated patio. Tourists can openly view 50 or so patios that would normally be behind iron gates. This festival dates back to 1918, offering visitors a real visual feast and the opportunity to take the kind of photos most people expect to see from a visit to Cordoba. Learn more here. Download a list of patios with map, or pick up a map at the Cordoba tourist office. Patios are generally open to the public between 11:00am and 2:00pm, and then again from 6:00pm to 10:00pm.
The Cordoba Spring Fair (Feria de Cordoba)
During the last week of May, this fair takes place a few kilometers outside of the city the municipal fairground (and not in the Jewish Quarter or La Judeira). This is one of the oldest fairs in Andalusia, dating back to 1284. The fair is a much smaller version of the famous Seville Feria, consisting of small tents or casetas where people eat, drink, and celebrate. Unlike Seville, in Cordoba, you don’t have to know anyone to join in the festivities. Learn more here.
If you are in Cordoba and miss the festivals mentioned above, you will still see lots of flowers. And you can still view remarkable patios.
The Palace of Viana, Museum of Patios offers 12 patios and a garden that are in full bloom this time of year. Tickets to the patios are 9 EUR for adults, and kids 10 and under are FREE. However, this site is not located in the Jewish Quarter (La Judeira).
Note: Because I didn’t visit in the spring/summer, the photos below are stock images.
2) Jewish Synagogue (La Sinagoga)
We popped into the old Jewish Synagogue to appreciate its history. This medieval synagogue was completed in 1315, and visitors can still see the entry room. Entry was free when we visited, but some websites report a minimal entry fee possible. The site is a quick see, as not much remains. However, it is still worth the quick visit while exploring the Jewish quarter to fully appreciate all the cultures that have made Cordoba what it is today.
3) Puerta del Puente, Roman Bridge, and Torre de Calahorra
Below the great Mezquita, you will find the Puerta del Puente and the Torre Calahorra, each at one end of the Roman bridge. So you can easily visit these three sites together. I recommend a visit to the Roman bridge and Torre Calahorra during the daylight, and also at sunset. You get excellent views (and photos) of the Mezquita from here, especially from the top of the Torre Calahorra. The Torre Calahorra has limited opening hours, so there is limited opportunity to get photos from the rooftop during sunset. When we were there in December, sunset was around 5:30pm, and you could visit until 6pm (tickets were 4,50 EUR adults/3 EUR kids and students). The Roman bridge is always open and free. You can visit the Puerta del Puente gate, but its exhibition room and balcony were temporarily closed during our visit so you might want to check to see if it has reopened when you visit.
4) Mezquita (Cordoba's Mosque-Cathedral)
If you are in Cordoba, you are probably there because of the Mezquita. This mosque with cathedral in the center of it, is located in the Old Town near the river and is one of the top three sites in all of Andalusia. There is a Starbucks across from the entrance if you miss your favorite drink. Checkout my detailed report about our visit to the Mezquita.
5) Alcazar of the Christian Kings
The Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos, or Castle of the Christian Kings, is a medieval alcazar located in the historic center of Cordoba. You will find it located between the Mezquita and the Royal Stables. It had been a royal residence as early as 1236, and the current building dates to 1328. However, both the Romans and Muslims had a fortress here before it was a residence. The history of the Alcazar is very rich, and the history buffs in our family enjoyed their visit very much. The others were impressed by its gardens, so really, this is a great place to visit for the whole family. Since we visited in winter, the hours for the Alcazar were longer and we easily purchased tickets onsite (and they were a bargain). Be sure to check the hours when you are visiting, as during the summer, this is a site you want to visit in the morning as it closes at 2:30pm and notes it is closed on Mondays. Timed tickets are available for purchase online and are the best way to guarantee entry during the busier season. You can purchase a combo ticket with the nearby Baths (Banos) of Alcazar Califal, which has similar opening hours. However, entry to the baths is free from 6pm in the winter (9/16-6/14) and from 12pm to 2:15pm in the summer. You can read more about the history here.
6) Casa Andalusi
The Casa Andalusi was not on our itinerary when we visited Cordoba, because I first learned of it when I heard its mention at the Torre Calahorra museum. It is located really close to the Jewish Synagogue, and that is how I stumbled upon its physical location. This museum is a restored 12th century home that transports the visitor into life during the time of the caliphate. This is a wonderful museum worth planning into your visit and can easily be combined with the Synagogue and a visit to the Zoko (souk).
7) The Passion and Spirit of Andalusian Horse Show at the Cordoba Royal Stables
If you need a reason to stay overnight in Cordoba, then this is it! While you can view a couple of sites like the Mezquita as a day-trip from Seville, an evening at the Royal Stables elevates your visit (just don’t get a horse bite!). The stables are located next to the Alcazar of the Christian Kings and tickets can be purchased at a ticket booth across from the palace. Read about our experience at this show here and why I recommend it so much!
8) The Cordoba Zoco (Souk)
The Zoco in Cordoba was also missing from my itinerary, and I found it by accident as I explored La Judeira. This is the place to visit if you enjoy buying souvenirs from artisans, or simply enjoy seeing the works of various artisans. Local artisans offer items including pottery leather, glass and mosaics. See which artisans and items are currently on display here. Its a nice break from the very commercial souvenir shops you will find all over La Judeira.
Recommended Reading
To better understand the context of medieval Spain, consider reading “The Ornament of the World: How Muslims, Jews, and Christians Created a Culture of Tolerance in Medieval Spain.” This book has a 4.5 rating on Amazon (out of 570 ratings). Find out why Christopher Hitchens, The Nation, said, “It is no exaggeration to say that what we presumptuously call “Western” culture is owed in large measure to the Andalusian enlightenment…This book partly restores a world we have lost.” This would be great reading as you wait for your trip, on the plane ride, or if you have returned and are now extra curious about this topic.
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What’s missing from this list? Please leave any suggestions or helpful tips from your own visit below.
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