If you’re looking for a magical and historic atmosphere, you absolutely have to check out Barrio Santa Cruz in Seville! This charming neighborhood, once the old Jewish quarter, is a maze of quaint streets and alleys lined with traditional Andalusian homes, beautiful flowers, and cozy plazas. Wandering the neighborhood, we stumbled upon iconic landmarks like the Seville Cathedral and the Royal Alcázar that gave us a fascinating glimpse into the city’s past. On top of that, the area is filled with tapas bars and diverse shops offering a modern day reprieve from the historical attractions.
History and Significance
The charming neighborhood of Santa Cruz in Seville has a fascinating history. When Ferdinand III of Castile conquered the city from the Moors, he set aside this area for the Jewish population, making it Seville’s old Jewish Quarter. At that time it was home to a vibrant community; the second largest in the Iberian Peninsula after Toledo!
The Jews were kicked out in 1492, the neighborhood went through a rough patch in it’s history. In the 18th century, urban renewal projects gave it back some life. Former synagogues were transformed into churches, like the Church of Saint Bartholomew. The name “Santa Cruz” actually comes from a parish church that was built on the site of a synagogue, which was later destroyed during the Napoleonic Wars. So yeah, there is a lot of history here.
Today, Barrio Santa Cruz is a charming neighborhood and home to lovely plazas such as Plaza de Santa Cruz, Plaza de los Venerables, and Plaza Doña Elvira. The neighborhood is conveniently close to key Seville landmarks such as the Seville Cathedral and the Alcázar of Seville, making it the perfect starting point for exploring the architectural and historical treasures that Seville has on offer.
Photo above: One of the alleyways I got lost in.
Photo above: Some alleys were very narrow, only a couple people could squeeze through.
Major Attractions in Barrio de Santa Cruz
Barrio de Santa Cruz is packed with sites! I organized a list by category based on interest:
Historical and Architectural Landmarks
Seville Cathedral and La Giralda: A magnificent cathedral and a former minaret offering panoramic views, both UNESCO World Heritage sites. Really, this is an amazing cathedral and as a bonus, you can see Christopher Columbus’ tomb here.
Real Alcázar of Seville: A royal palace famous for its Moorish and Christian architectural styles and beautiful gardens. Absolutely stunning; and already on everyone’s Seville itinerary, I am sure.
Archivo General de Indias: Another UNESCO site housing historical documents of the Spanish Empire. Pretty cool place that doesn’t take a lot of time to visit.
Hospital de los Venerables: A 17th-century building hosting art exhibitions, including works by Velázquez and Murillo.
Cultural and Artistic Sites
Casa de Murillo: The former home of Spanish painter Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, now a cultural landmark.
Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla: A museum dedicated to the history of Jews in Seville. A visit here can help you understand the neighborhood better.
Casa de Salinas: A private mansion showcasing Mudejar and Renaissance architectural elements, with guided tours available.
Scenic and Quiet Spots
Jardines de Murillo and the Paseo de Catalina de Ribera: Gardens offering a lush, peaceful escape with beautiful plantings and sculptures.
Plaza de Santa Cruz: A picturesque plaza at the heart of the neighborhood.
Plaza de Doña Elvira: Known for its orange trees, tiled benches, and fountain.
Plaza de la Alianza: Offers beautiful views of historic buildings; great for photographers!
Quaint and Lesser-Known Places
Callejón del Agua: A charming, shady retreat along the old city walls.
Plaza de los Refinadores: Features a statue of the legendary Don Juan.
Convento de San José del Carmen: Offers a peek into the religious life of the city, and known for the sweets made by cloistered nuns (Spain nun cookies!!!).
Family-friendly Attractions
- Real Alcázar of Seville: This royal palace is not only breathtakingly beautiful but also a fantastic place for children to explore. Its expansive gardens, with mazes, peacocks, and pools give kids plenty of space to run around and play, while the ornate rooms and corridors will make them feel like they’ve stepped into a fairytale.
Jardines de Murillo and the Paseo de Catalina de Ribera: Next to Barrio Santa Cruz, these gardens are perfect for a family stroll. The wide paths, shaded areas, and playgrounds make it an ideal spot for kids to play while parents relax.
Plaza de Doña Elvira: Known for its fountains and orange trees, this plaza is a quieter spot in the neighborhood where families can take a break. The benches and the gentle sound of the fountain make it a great space to unwind.
Archivo General de Indias: This historic building offers learning opportunities for older children and teenagers who have an interest in history and exploration. The exhibitions detailing the adventures of Spanish explorers and their discoveries in the Americas are pretty cool.
Photo above: Seville Cathedral.
Photo above: Three columns we randomly came across.
Architecture
One of the key features of Barrio Santa Cruz is its narrow, winding streets that offer a cool respite from the summer heat. We were there in Winter, and it was amazing and we didn’t have to worry about heat. But Seville gets really hot in the summers so shade is valuable.
In addition to the functional aspect of the buildings, we saw stunning examples of Mudejar architecture, with intricate tile work and decorative brick details that truly stand out. There were also Renaissance and Baroque elements added during renovations in the 17th and 18th centuries, like the ornate church at the Hospital de los Venerables.
As we wandered through the neighborhood, we stumbled upon converted synagogues transformed into churches, cozy plazas and courtyards, and open spaces where we could relax under orange trees and admire beautiful tile work. It’s a great place to get intentionally lost!
Photo above: Many buildings had ornate details like the one in the photo above.
Photo above: Church we came across.
Cultural Experiences
Barrio Santa Cruz in Seville offers a rich cultural experience, as the former Jewish Quarter and its central role today in the city’s social life. Speaking of the former Jewish community, the influences of the Jewish community are still seen and appreciated today. The Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla is a great place to learn more about this history, from being a thriving community to their expulsion. After the expulsion of Jews, many synagogues were converted into churches, such as Santa María la Blanca and San Bartolomé. The roots of the city run deep.
A stroll through the neighborhood leads to encounters with various sculptures and public art installations that celebrate historical figures and cultural legends. Additionally the mudejar architecture, a fusion of Christian and Moorish designs, can be seen in the decorative tiles, buildings, and public spaces.
The neighborhood is filled with tapas bars and restaurants where traditional Andalusian dishes are served. We had fun popping into various places and tasting the menu. This kind of culinary adventure offers a taste of the local flavors. But there is no reason to limit this exploration to your taste buds. Flamenco is alive in Seville. Venues like Casa de la Guitarra offer authentic flamenco performances that draw both locals and tourists into the emotive world of this traditional dance and music.
And depending when you visit, the city has several festivals that are a real cultural treat. The Holy Week processions in Seville are some of the most spectacular in Spain, and Barrio Santa Cruz plays a significant role in these events. The narrow streets provide a dramatic backdrop for the solemn processions. When we visited around the Christmas holiday. we found many nativity scenes throughout the neighborhood, and lots of decorations. Other festivals, such as the April Fair (Feria de Abril), although celebrated city-wide, can be experienced here.
Photo above: We were in Seville mid-December. One day, I took a wrong turn and came across this procession. No idea what was happening, but it seemed special.
Photo above: This charming little church peeked out at me down a side street when shopping.
Walking Tours and Itineraries
A walking tour can be a great way to make sure you find all the key spots in Barrio de Santa Cruz. While there are a number of tour companies offering tours, I suggest checking out Sevilla Walking Tours. The City Intro Tour offers a nice introduction, and you can spend more time at the places that intrigue you most after the tour.
If you prefer to show yourself around, here is a suggested itinerary for exploring the neighborhood and its sites:
Start: Jardines de Murillo (9:00 AM – 9:30 AM)
Begin your day with a peaceful stroll in the Jardines de Murillo, enjoying the quiet and beauty of the gardens.
Stop 1: Plaza de Santa Cruz (9:40 AM – 10:00 AM)
Explore the picturesque Plaza de Santa Cruz, the heart of the neighborhood with its historic iron cross and beautiful surroundings.
Stop 2: Callejón del Agua (10:10 AM – 10:30 AM)
Walk through Callejón del Agua, a shaded alley that offers a cool escape and leads to the ancient walls of the Alcázar.
Stop 3: Real Alcázar of Seville (10:40 AM – 12:30 PM)
Spend ample time at the Real Alcázar, exploring its lavish halls, royal chambers, and stunning gardens.
Stop 4: Archivo General de Indias (12:40 PM – 1:10 PM)
Visit the Archivo General de Indias, a treasure trove of documents and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Lunch Break: Plaza de Doña Elvira (1:20 PM – 2:50 PM)
Enjoy a relaxing lunch at one of these options around Plaza de Doña Elvira:
- Cheap Option: Bar Estrella – A cozy spot offering affordable tapas and local dishes. Try their “montaditos” (small sandwiches).
- Mid-Range Option: La Fresquita – Known for its traditional Andalusian cuisine, consider ordering “salmorejo” (a tomato and bread puree) or fried fish.
- Upscale Option: Taberna del Alabardero – This upscale restaurant serves refined Spanish dishes. The “paella” is highly recommended.
Stop 5: Casa de Murillo (3:00 PM – 3:30 PM)
Explore the Casa de Murillo, the former home of the painter, now a museum showcasing his works and life.
Stop 6: Hospital de los Venerables (3:40 PM – 4:10 PM)
Visit the Hospital de los Venerables to see beautiful art exhibitions in a stunning 17th-century setting.
Stop 7: Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla (4:20 PM – 4:50 PM)
Spend a substantial time at the Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla, delving into the history of the Jewish community in the city.
End: Plaza de Santa Cruz (5:00 PM)
Finish your tour back at Plaza de Santa Cruz, perhaps enjoying the late afternoon ambiance and reflecting on your day before the dinner hours.
Photo above: Much of the neighborhood is pedestrian only.
Photo above: You never know who you might meet on these streets!
Best Photo Spots
This neighborhood offers lots of excellent photo spots (obviously). You are likely to come across some without any extra effort on your part. But just in case you need some ideas, you might want to snap some selfies at these locations:
Real Alcázar of Seville
- Gardens of the Alcázar: The beautifully manicured gardens with their intricate Moorish fountains, tiled benches, and exotic plants offer endless photo opportunities. We certainly spent lots of time taking photos here, and they are some of my favorites.
- Patio de las Doncellas: This courtyard is known for its stunning reflections and detailed architecture, making it an ideal spot for architectural photography.
2. Seville Cathedral and La Giralda
- View from the Giralda Tower: Climbing the Giralda tower provides panoramic views of the cityscape of Seville.
- Facade of the Cathedral: The intricate details of the Gothic cathedral make for dramatic close-up shots.
3. Callejón del Agua
- This narrow alley, with its old walls and trailing plants, captures the essence of Seville’s Moorish past and is great for atmospheric shots.
4. Plaza de Doña Elvira
- Known for its tiled benches, ornate fountain, and orange trees, this plaza offers a quintessentially Andalusian backdrop for photos.
5. Plaza de los Venerables
- This quiet square with its charming facades and cafes is perfect for capturing the relaxed lifestyle of Seville. The soft lighting and architecture provide a great setting for portrait photography.
6. Hospital de los Venerables
- The sunken courtyard inside the Hospital de los Venerables is less known but incredibly photogenic with its old world charm and baroque architecture.
7. Plaza de Santa Cruz
- Featuring the iconic Cruz de la Cerrajería, this plaza offers a historic setting for photographs.
8. Archway leading to Patio de Banderas
- This spot provides a beautiful frame with the Alcázar on one side and the old Jewish quarter on the other, offering a snapshot of the contrasting architectural styles.
9. Casa de Salinas
- The facade and patio of Casa de Salinas are lesser-known but stunning due to their intricate Mudejar architectural details.
Accomodations
My family prefers to stay apartments when traveling. This is largely due to the size of our group. But we also appreciate the convenience of having a living room, separate bedrooms, and the privacy of our own place. We found a cute Andalusian apartment in Barrio de Santa Cruz. However, I couldn’t help but stare at the Hotel Alfonso XIII every time I passed by. It looked gorgeous. If Gary and I visit Seville without the kids, I will want to stay there. It is also a great location for seeing the sites and enjoying shops and restaurants.
Regardless of which place you stay, this is definitely the neighborhood to stay in when visiting Seville. Especially if you are visiting for the first time. There are lots of accommodation options and I feel silly ranking any, when I only stayed one place, and dreamed of staying at Hotel Alfonso. There are lots of places in between the two and the perfect place for you can easily be found on Booking.com. Find a place that suits your needs and budget, and if it is in this neighborhood, you can’t go wrong.
